Wednesday, 2 April 2014

First few days in Cape Maclear

Internet
The internet is really unstable and I only have access once or twice a day, which makes it very hard to post anything on my blog. It’s unbelievable slow, but it’s good to be unreachable as well, it makes this holiday more relaxing (even though it’s unbearable not to know the football results now that the Norwegian Premiership has started!)



Cape Maclear
When I was planning my trip to Malawi, I had one mission, and that was to kayak in Lake Malawi (which has been on my Bucket List for a couple of years). So after I’d googled “Kayak Lake Malawi” Cape Maclear came up, therefore I am now in that exact spot.

Poverty
The first impression of this little village far away from the city was really good, it seems peaceful and relaxed. After a few days here, I’ve noticed all the poverty that is so common in Africa. I walked around on Saturday and kids would come up to me and say: “How are you”, I answer: “Good” then they would say: “Give me money”, or there are kids walking around with a sheet of paper saying they need transport money for a football match, even though I didn’t believe them I gave them some.
And when I walk the beach there are always someone local coming up to me to sell me things, either “happy pants”, jewellery or other things that will last one week. I am never interested in these things, but they keep trying. Since it’s out of season now, it’s not many white people here, making them try extra hard to sell me products or entertainment (playing drums for money).

Cut feet and Kayak trip
On Sunday morning I had originally arranged a 5 hour hike with a local guide, and we had agreed to meet at 5 o’clock in the morning, (so we could avoid the worst heat). But during my first day in Cape Maclear I walked around and managed to cut my feet, making them very sore. Not until 6 ‘clock did my guide show up, and I told him I would rent a kayak instead and postpone the hike to Monday. So at noon he came with the kayak (that was another long wait, with the kayak I also got a mask and snorkel. Thumbi Island is about 1500-2500 meters away from our beach, so I paddled there first. The water was calm and so warm I didn’t mind using an open kayak which I’ve never done before. When I reached Thumbi I jumped in the water and did some free diving (I don’t like using a snorkel that’s not mine).  There was a lot of pretty fishes to see, but they were all small so not too impressive. What I did notice was that I sank like a rock, I’m used to the ocean, and it was so different from the salt water that makes you float. After 15-20 minutes I continued my kayak trip, and I decided to paddle around the island (about 3km). The weather was nice, sunny but not too hot, so I went to shore and lied on a big rock. This was peaceful!  No one around, except one canoe that paddled slowly and silently past me, and I noticed later that I wasn’t the only on the small island. Some other tourists had rented a boat and did the same thing as me, chilled on some rocks away from everything and everyone. I paddled all the way around the island, and I saw a couple of fish eagles by the shore. It was awesome to get so close to them, I was literally right beneath them! I wish I had my camera with me but I will defiantly go back on the kayak another day, so hopefully I will see the eagles again.
After 4-5 hours on the lake, both swimming and kayaking I went back to shore, where a bunch of locals met me, two kids was asking for money, one guy wanted to sell happy pants and a couple helped me with the kayak.

Hiking
Monday morning at 5:30 I got up and ready for a five hour hike with my guide Isaac who let out the kayak the day before. He charged $25, but he told me we would go to the top, and he would show me all the good spots to take pictures. At the entrance of the national park I had to pay another $7 ($3 cheaper than non-residents), and we started our hike. We walked into a small path filled with tall grass, and Isaac looked a bit uncertain, but I followed him. He kept a fast pace, which was good, but I doubted it would take 5 hours. The further we got, the more stops he did to have a look around, there were several paths, but it looked obvious where to go, just following the yellow and blue ribbons in the trees. At one point he cut off and took a 90 degree left turn, which looked very strange, and shortly after we lost our path. Now I asked him if he was lost, but he denied. 30 minutes later, walking in the bushes I got a bit angry, and told him I was not paying £25 for this. We walked and walked, and kept going downhill, and when we finally found a path, he guided me back to the lodge. It took us 1 hour 50 minutes and less than 450 kcal. We argued for a while about the price, and I ended up paying $8, which was $3 more than I offered him. I won’t be using him as a guide, and I don’t recommend him to anyone going to Cape Maclear. After breakfast I went back to the mountain, this time to the top.

ATM
There is no ATM in Cape Maclear, which is a pain when you don’t bring enough money, and the only way to pay is cash. So after a very quick shower I jumped in the back of Piet’s truck and drove with 4 cashless people to Monkey Bay. There we found out that neither of their two ATMs works, so we had to drive another 20-25 minutes, to the next town. That one was broken as well, another couple of miles we tried yet another ATM, this time the Finish couple managed to withdraw some money. We kept going for another half hour to a bigger town, and on the last ATM we tried, me and the British got our cash! (Only minutes later I got a call from my bank, and they also sent me text I had to call them ASAP. I guess they got worried when they saw how many times someone had tried to withdraw money at different bank chains). When we returned to Cape Maclear it was late afternoon, it had taken us 5 hours to get cash from the ATM, but the ride in the back of the pickup felt like it went fast, and it was sunny and not hot, since we were driving at 90 km/h. Got a bit sunburned on my legs (didn’t put sunscreen on them) but all in all, it was a good trip.

Tuesday
I was told Doctor Bob was going to the mountain to set a trail at 7 AM, so I got up at 6 and had breakfast with the Canadian doctor I had met on Sunday evening. He is a funny guy who loves hiking, and he and 4-5 locals were improving a trail they had made. I joined them, and it was great to use a saw and an axe again. After a few hours I decided to leave them and run to the top, I did so and came down to Cape Maclear ready for lunch. After lunch I had agreed to hang out with the barman, Richard. He had his day off and wanted to show me Cape Maclear, so he came just after 1 o’clock and we walked to his hours where he lived with his grandmother. They don’t speak English so we communicated at some extend in Nyanja, but had Richard as translator. After a bit of chatting we went in their back garden to have lunch, shima with pumpkin leaves and ground nuts, which is one of my favourites. We walked around Cape Maclear, and we got in the deep compounds, it felt a lot safer and more comfortable having a local with me. At half past four I headed back to the lodge, thanking Richard and his relatives for their hostility and lunch. A really cool experience in a small village, Cape Maclear.

In the evening I had been invited for dinner by K/Kay so I walked the 2-3km to her house, and had a meal that suited the “Caveman diet” with her and her housemate Rob. Great food and good company.

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